Synopsis: In the event you’re utilizing the bandsaw only for tough cuts and curves, you’re lacking out on one thing. This machine is ideal for ripping strong wooden, from breaking down inventory to near-finish cuts. It’s quieter and safer than a desk noticed, and Tony O’Malley argues it’s additionally extra comfy to make use of. Right here he covers the fundamentals of organising and utilizing the bandsaw for all of your ripping wants.

Bandsaws include a fence for a motive: They aren’t only for curves and tough cuts. Certainly, they will make high quality, correct rips as effectively. Supplied you might have a great noticed that’s arrange and geared up with the suitable blade, you may follow this protected, environment friendly machine from inventory breakdown to close end cuts. The one restrict is your bandsaw’s rip capability. As a result of bandsaw tables are small, infeed and outfeed helps are useful.

Whereas I’d by no means hand over my desk noticed, the bandsaw is the higher option to go for ripping strong wooden in my store. For one, it’s quieter and far safer. You’ll by no means expertise kickback on one. It additionally wastes much less wooden as a result of its kerf is about half that of a desk noticed’s. And final, I discover that working at a bandsaw is simply extra comfy.

Rip large to present the wooden room to maneuver

I work with kiln-dried, roughsawn lumber from certainly one of a number of trusted native mills. Regardless that the wooden has been dried effectively, I nonetheless anticipate some motion after I rip boards into narrower items. That is the place the bandsaw’s security benefit shines essentially the most, as a result of there’s no risk of kickback when pressure within the wooden is relieved and the wooden binds in opposition to the blade. You possibly can all the time simply preserve pushing the workpiece by means of the minimize.

To start, I joint one fringe of a tough board, then set the fence on the bandsaw and rip my items 1⁄8 in. to 1⁄4 in. over their last width. If the sting could be very irregular, like a pure edge, I first mark a straight line and bandsaw to the road earlier than jointing that edge. The longer the half, the extra further width I go away in case the half develops criminal—a curve alongside the sting—which is widespread. There’s no have to joint between rips at this stage. I then give the rough-ripped components a day to settle earlier than persevering with to mill them. I stack the items on edge with area between to permit air to flow into.

As soon as the wooden has acclimated, I proceed milling it to last measurement. I begin by jointing a face. If there’s any bow, I joint the concave face for security and practicality, then aircraft to last thickness. Subsequent, I joint one edge, once more selecting any concave edge. With each faces planed, I can edge-joint with both face in opposition to the jointer’s fence.

Second rip is simply shy of ultimate width

At this stage, folks usually flip to the desk noticed and rip the board to width. I follow the bandsaw, however with an help from the planer—or if want be, the jointer—within the subsequent step. The bandsaw’s advantages nonetheless stand for this end-stage ripping, however the bandsawn edge will want cleanup and refining. So I rip my completed components 1/16 in. to 1/8 in. wider than last width, once more relying on the half’s size. If I’m ripping thinner strips from a wider board, I rejoint a reference edge between passes. The result’s a number of items of the identical width, with one edge jointed and the opposite edge bandsawn.

Rip large, then wait

Joint and aircraft

Carry to last width

On large boards, joint a second edge

Aircraft (or joint) to width

This may occasionally sound stunning, however I run my components by means of the planer on edge to measurement them to last width. It really works nice offered there’s sufficient bearing floor on the tables. For thinner components of the identical width, I group multiples and move them by means of the planer collectively, letting them act like one thick workpiece. For instance, I’d by no means attempt to run a single 3⁄4-in.-thick by 3-in.-wide piece on edge by means of the planer. The piece is just too more likely to tip, and the planed edge in all probability gained’t come out sq.. But when I gang 4 items of the identical width and maintain them collectively as one bigger block, they’ll keep vertical and their edges will likely be sq.. For longer inventory, I arrange infeed and outfeed curler stands to help the work.

Once I want only one half or when the piece is just too large to aircraft on edge, I rip it on the bandsaw 1⁄16 in. large after which joint the ultimate edge. Pay attention to your jointer’s depth of minimize; don’t go previous your required dimension.

Jointing the sting could also be one other shock. Returning to the jointer goes in opposition to widespread milling apply, however I believe we should always rethink. For one, whether or not you rip with a bandsaw or desk noticed, that edge can have machine marks that have to be cleaned up. Some folks do that with a handplane, however I argue that my jointer works simply as effectively and is faster. Plus, when are completely parallel edges essential? Not with boards glued up for a tabletop, because you’ll convey the entire prime to dimension, together with making its outer, unglued edges parallel after gluing. Maybe completely parallel edges are necessary for a floating raised panel in a bigger door, however I consider that lower than good is ok. As a result of floating panels want room to maneuver, there’s additionally room for slight variation within the width from one finish to the opposite. Whereas there’s all the time the perfect to attempt for, there’s additionally acceptable actuality.

—Tony O’Malley makes customized cabinetry in Emmaus, Pa.

Pictures: Barry NM Dima.

Drawings: Vince Babak.

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From High-quality Woodworking #302

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