Synopsis: Utilizing pre-twisted rush, which mimics the look of the real rush used previously, David Johnson lays out the method of weaving a standard rush seat. Soaking, wrapping, stapling, tightening, and dealing methodically are the keys to success.
Traditionally, rush seats have been woven with grasses native to wherever the chairs have been produced. Cattails and bulrush have been most ceaselessly used and are known as “real rush.” Nowadays a typical substitute is paper fiber, which is simple to work with and supply however doesn’t look the identical. In between these choices is pre-twisted rush, which I’m utilizing right here. Not like real rush, it’s commercially out there. Though it’s more difficult to work with than paper fiber, the feel and appear of it are value the additional effort.
Pre-twisted rush is comprised of seagrass and mimics the look of real rush. It’s out there in 2-lb. coils in varied thicknesses. The seat proven right here is small and solely required one coil in dimension #5, which measures on common 3/16 in. to 1/4 in. thick. The frenzy needs to unravel, so deal with it with care and tape lower ends to maintain them neat. I wish to work with not more than 50 ft. at a time; for me, that could be a handful as I pull it off the coil. Soak the push for five to 10 minutes in heat water to make it extra pliable and simpler to work with. Soaking for too lengthy or at too sizzling a temperature will trigger discoloration, and the push will wish to come untwisted.
A part of the simplicity of weaving this specific seat, for Nancy Hiller’s “Voysey Two-Coronary heart Chair” (FWW #301), is that it’s a sq., which eliminates two steps—squaring the seat and weaving a bridge. I’ll present you easy methods to take care of these a little bit later, however for now I’m specializing in a sq. seat to provide the primary course of.
Soak and staple
There’s nothing too technical about starting this weave. Soak, staple, and begin wrapping.
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Two corners at a time
To make it simple on your self, work two corners at a time, establishing the sample loosely after which going again to tighten it. Dealing with the seat, staple the push on the within of the left rail close to the again leg. Deliver the push towards you, over the entrance rail, and round it. Pull the push up contained in the seat body, make a 90° flip over itself, and wrap excessive of the left rail, round it, after which throughout the seat to the fitting rail. Do that all once more—over the fitting rail and round, up by means of the center of the seat and 90° over itself, then wrap over the entrance rail and throughout the seat to the again.
Pull all of it taut
Now tighten the push. Return to the place you began and pull the push tightly across the entrance rail and up the within of the seat. To make the 90° flip neat, pinch the nook collectively whereas pulling it tight. Then pull it tight across the aspect rail and clamp it with a hand clamp.
Flip the seat 90° clockwise and repeat. All the time rotate the seat as you tighten so that you deal with every nook the identical. Attempt to pack the push as carefully collectively as attainable alongside the rails to stop gaps from forming. Twist the push again collectively as you’re employed if it begins to come back undone.
Becoming a member of two lengths collectively
You’ll be able to’t work with an excessive amount of rush without delay, so you’ll inevitably run out of fabric, most likely greater than a few times. This isn’t an issue. The objective is to attenuate the variety of knots in addition to to land the knots in discreet locations and on the underside of the seat. If you run out of rush, tie on a brand new soaked piece with a sq. knot. Disguise this knot on the within of the seat by tying the place the push goes throughout.
Images: Anissa Kapsales. Drawings: David Johnson.
From High quality Woodworking #302
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